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ZANZIBAR: THE SPICE ISLANDS

 

About Zanzibar:


Situated in the Indian Ocean, 36 km off the coastline of mainland Tanzania lies Zanzibar. Zanzibar officially refers to the archipelago that include Unguja and Pemba, surrounded by about 50 smaller ones.


Covering an area of 1464 sq km, Zanzibar is a mainly low lying island, with it's highest point at 120 meters.


Zanzibar is an island state within the United Republic of Tanzania, and has its own semi-autonomous government made up of a Revolutionary Council and House of Representatives.


Once the trading centre of the whole of East Africa, Zanzibar attracted Sumerians, Assyrians, Phoenicians, Arabs, Chinese and Malays. The great explorers, Burton, Speke, Livingstone and Krapf continued their journeys from these shores.


It is characterised by beautiful sandy beaches with fringing coral reefs, warm clear blue waters, idyllic islands, excellent reefs for snorkelling and diving, fantastic deep sea fishing and water sports activities.


The historic Stone Town with its narrow winding streets, vivid markets and colourful bazaars makes for an interesting cultural visit.


Commonly known as the "Spice Island"; famous for spices such as cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, cardamom, peper and others). Spice tours are a popular excursion.


CLIMATE:


The coolest and driest time to visit is between late June and October. From late December to February or early March temperatures are a little higher. April and May which are seasonally subject to the long rains. Short rains can occur in November but are characterised by short showers which do not last long. The island is blessed with an average of seven to eight hours of sunshine daily.


VISAS & IMMIGRATION:


Visas are required by almost all visitors to Tanzania, and should be obtained before arriving in Tanzania. If you are arriving from a country without a Tanzanian embassy or consulate, visas are issued at Dar es Salaam international airport and at Zanzibar airport. Tourist visas are valid for three months from the date of issue.


Visa requirements are likely to change so please check with your local Tanzanian embassy or representative.

Passport must be valid for at least six months.


MONEY:

Official Currency: Tanzania Shilling=100 cents
Current Exchange Rate: Today's Exchange Rate


Mastercard, Access and Diners Club have a limited acceptance. Travellers cheques can be exchanged with authorised deals and bureaux de change and are best taken in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling. Many hotels may require you make payment in foreign currency either in cash or by Travellers Cheque.


LOCAL TIME:


Tanzania/Zanzibar is three hours ahead of GMT


ELECTRICAL POWER:
Electric Power is 230V running at 50Hz. The Plug types used are :
Round pins with ground
Rectangular blade plug


Excursions and places to visit

Stone town: The stone town is a unique architectural and cultural mix that has formed over a millenia of interaction between people from the East African mainland, Arabia, the Persian Gulf, India, China, Portugal and beyond. A guided tour may be organized to take you through the narrow twisting gully into the market where you may catch the fish auction.

In light of its historical significance and value, the United Nations has declared it as one of the World's Cultural Heritage sites. This has further sparked an architectural restoration effort after many years of neglect.
The architecture of Zanzibar and its historical significance is a vast topic. You may wish to refer to the following texts for further information.

References
"Zanzibar Stone Town: An Architectural Exploration", Prof Abdul Sheriff and Javed Jafferji, The Gallery Publications, Zanzibar, 1998


"Slaves, Spices and Ivory in Zanzibar", Prof Abdul Sheriff, James Currey, London, 1987.


Beit-Al-Ajaib (House of Wonders): Admired for its high ceilings and towering pillars, this used to be the Sultans Palace until 1911.


National musuem: Here can be found a collection of portraits of past Sultans and their documents, and relics of early explorers - including Dr. Livingstone's medicine chest and local arts and crafts. Livingstone house: This house was once placed by the Sultan Seyyid Majid for use by the European explorer David Livingstone, while in preparation for his expedition to the mainland in 1866.

Slave market: Zanzibar was the hub of the slave trade in East Africa, until 1873 when it was abolished. On this site now stands a church.

Changu island: This small island used to be known as prison island, where slaves used to be kept pending transportation to other markets. Remains of underground slave chambers can still be seen. One of the main attractions today are the giant tortoise.

Marhubi ruins: This palace was built by Sultan Sayyid Bargash for his harem in the 1880's. It was however accidentally burnt down in 1899 and now stands as ruins.

Spice tour:This tour enables one to see, taste and smell various spices and fruit that are cultivated on the Island.

Also to see: Town Market, Tippu Tip House, Portuguese Fort, Dunga Palace, Kidichi Persian Bath, Mangapwani Caves, Kizimkazi Mosque, Mtoni Palace, Jozani Forest.


Dolphin safari: Duration-Full Day
This full day guided excursion begins at 9h00 when you are picked up from your hotel and transferred by minibus to the fishing village of Fumba, 18 kilometres away. Here you will be provided with a life jacket demonstration followed by a briefing on the days excursion. You will then board the dhows and set off in search of the dolphins (85% chances). The species frequently found at Menai bay are spinner and bottlenose dolphins. You will swim with dolphins if they stay close to the boat, but are unlikely to be able to touch the dolphins as they are of course wild animals.


You will then go on to one of the selected snorkeling locations. Here you will snorkel while accompanied by a snorkeling guide to show points of interest and to assist with beginners. Snorkeling equipment will be provided. You will then move on to the another island or sand bank for lunch. Lunch is a traditional Zanzibar meal and typically includes a selection of barbecued fish, rice, lentils and fish curry. Chilled fresh fruit juice, mineral water and bottled soft drinks are available throughout the day. You will spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing, swimming or snorkeling.


Return to Fumba by sail, if wind permits; setting off around 16h00, the journey takes approximately one hour. You will be transferred back to your hotel.

Please bring: Comfortable waterproof sandals, sun protection items, bathing suits & towels.

Bad Weather Conditions: Visitors may get wet, delayed or the trip canceled at a short notice as your well being is our prime concern.

Dhow cruise: Description of the Dhow Lunch - Prison & Bawe Islands:
(Open Bar with assorted drinks available).

The Dhow will cruise first to Prison Island to explore the island for one hour - photographic giant Tortoises which came across from Seychelles more than one hundred years ago and the Prison which was used as a hospital.

This historical Island was formerly owned by an Arab and used for the
confinement of refractory slaves. It was bought by General Mathews and the jail (gaol) which still stands was built in 1893 and hence the name "PRISON ISLAND".

Leave for Bawe Island where a powder soft beach awaits you. The crew will prepare sensational seafood BBQ for you while you snorkel the reef close to the island. Clown Fish, Parrot Fish, Moorish Idols and the occasional Lion Fish all dance to the music of the waves through their majestic ballroom made coral. After a lunch of fresh fish, crabs, cigal, prawns, salads and fruits of the season, there is time to relax on the beach and to swim and snorkel some more. Late afternoon as the sun starts to sink lower in the sky you will depart for seafront of Stone Town where your transportation awaits you. The Coral rag building are their most picturesque from the sea, as the fading sun throws shadows between the buildings and sets a pastel glow to its walls.

Jozani forest: The Jozani Forest Reserve in Zanzibar is home to most of the world's remaining 2,000 Red Colobus Monkeys (National Geographic Vol.194 No.5).
These monkeys once found all over the island, are now concentrated in the forest area. A half day tour consists of a walk into the forest and mangrove swamps where one may have a close encounter with these endangered species.


Pemba
Pemba consists of gentle, undulating hills and deep verdant valleys which are all covered with a dense cover of clove, coconut and mango plantation. A more fertile land it is difficult to imagine. But it is not just the landscape that gives Pemba its magical reputation.

Pemba is brilliant and renowned for deep sea diving and snorkeling. We offer three hotels on Pemba Island - the Manta Reef Lodge, Funduu Lagoon and Misale Beach Bungalows. Both offer great locations, and great beaches. See Hotels, Lodges & Campsite section of our website for details on these two properties.

Whilst on the island, one can make day trips to the following places of interest:

Pujini Ruins
These are the ruins of a fortress, dating from the 13th century, constructed in a style otherwise unknown on the East Coast of Africa. There are many conflicting stories relating to the founder of this town, but most name him as Mohammad bin Abdulrahman. He is said to have exerted his influence on the mainland from Pate to Kilwa and out into the Indian Ocean as far as the Comoros.

He was a great boat-builder, favouring the matempe style, a prodigious builder of mosques and a fine bowman. During an extremely successful life as a merchant and pirate in the region, he decided to site his capital at Pujini, in a location on top of a hill, with only distant access to the sea, in order that he might defend his great wealth from raiders. The citadel was constructed with a massive earth rampart and moat and the walls were built with stone carried 40 km by porters from the North of the island. The site could be reached by sea, but only after careful navigation through the reefs and then up a twisting mangrove creek and a narrow canal.

The line of the outer walls of the fortress, which were about one metre thick by five metres high, can still be discerned. A large stairway can be seen at the location of the access point to the sea canal. At the North West corner a pile of rubble is all that remains of the watch tower. Inside the defensive walls the mosques and houses have mostly disintegrated, although the remains of an underground chamber and shrine can still be seen. A two-chambered well can be seen, reputedly divided so that his two wives, who were incredibly jealous of one another, could fetch water without meeting. This well seems to get easily filled in with silt and may not be visible.

Whilst a visit to this site will always make an enjoyable trip, the visitor will be generally disappointed by the state of disrepair of the ruins, especially after having read the stories of its history. The site is regularly cleared, but still it takes some imagination to envisage what the place must have been like in its heyday. There is little left standing and no information or relics on show.


Chake Chake
The largest town on Pemba, its capital and its administrative centre is Chake Chake, located about half way down the Western coast of the island at the head of a narrow creek. The old town is set on a ridge, from where it is possible to look down through the early morning mists over the rusty tin roofs to the silted creek below, where only the occasional dhow now ventures when the tides will allow.

Chake Chake Fortress
The oldest surviving building in the town is the Old Fortress, which is thought to date back at least to the eighteenth century and possibly as far back as the Portuguese occupation (1499 to 1698). Records dating back to the early 19th century describe the fortress as being rectangular in plan, with two square and two round towers at the corners, topped by thatched roofs. Round towers are typical of the Arab and Swahili architecture of the time, but the square towers are unusual and indicate possible Portuguese influence.

The fortress stands by the gate of the main hospital in town, overlooking the creek. It is unfortunate that at the beginning of the 20th century the most part of the building was demolished to make way for the new hospital. The section that remains were used firstly as a prison and then as a police barracks until the 1950's. More recently it has been used as an extension to the hospital.

Ras Mkumbuu
The ruins of the ancient town of Ras Mkumbuu are located at the head of the peninsula to the North of Chake Chake creek. Sited just above the beach, the town must have commanded a wide panorama of the surrounding area and the sea out past Mesali Island to the mainland beyond.

The town of Ras Mkumbuu is referred to in Arabic writings as being one of the major trading cities on the East African coast from at least the 10th century (Yakut bin Abdulla al Rumi, an Arab geographer of the 13th century), although the ruins that occupy the site date from the 13th and 14th centuries. The remains tell of a substantial mosque, with an arched mirhab, minaret and a ceiling supported by 12 pillars and of 14 tombs, also pillared and many decorated with Chinese porcelain (a testament to the range of early trading networks). There are also remains of houses and wells. Excavations on the site revealed earlier remains below the surface, including those of a 10th century mosque.

Mesali Island
Whilst visiting Ras Mkumbuu by boat, it is just a short diversion to Mesali Island, allegedly a hideout of the legendary pirate Captain Kidd, who is said to have left buried treasure here in 1698. The island has an idyllic beach and is famed for the quality of its diving. It is claimed that 40 of the 60 coral genera are represented, along with around 240 different species of fish.

Recent attempts to develop the island as an exclusive tourist resort have been rejected and it is hoped that the island and surrounding reef will be made a marine park in the near future.

 

Chwaka Ruins
The ruins of an 18th century town thought to be the capital of Pemba during a period when the island came under the control of the Mazrui Arabs of Mombasa. The town included a substantial mosque and fort and the remains of six tombs of members of the Mazrui family including one inscribed with the name "Mbarouk bin Khatib" and a date of 1807. The Mazrui were overthrown by Seyyid bin Said and his Busaidi Arabs during the early 19th century and the town fell into decay.

A path around the edge of the valley, leads to the 20 hectare site of a 15th century town. This place is said to have been the seat of Harun bin Ali, who was either a Nabahani Arab from Paje (in modern Kenya) or was the son of the legendary Mkana Ndune of Pujini (see page 214). Tradition tells of this connection and claims that Harun was as cold-blooded as his father, being known as 'Mvunja Pau' or 'the breaker of the pole'.

Tradition also claims that in this town there was a fort, reception halls, mosques and an iron works, with a harbour in the small creek nearby. All that remains today are the lower walls of the large Friday mosque, with some interesting architectural features, including a fine mirhab and a long central area, originally supported on square columns. Amongst the ten tombs to be found is a single pillared structure, claimed to be the tomb of Haroun himself and with glazed tiles and plaster reliefs. A second smaller mosque is known as the 'Msikiti Chooko' or 'mosque of the green grain', a name that relates to stories of it having been built by Harun's wife Mwana wa Chwaka with mortar mixed with green grain, to make the mortar harder.

Ngesi Forest Reserve
Three kilometres past Konde, the tar road quite suddenly comes to an end at the Ngesi Park Ranger Post and a dirt track enters a tunnel of dense forest. Immediately the air cools and the sounds of the jungle echo and reverberate around about. The forest is true double canopy, with an upper layer of majestic mgulele (antiarus), mwavi (erythrophloem), mtondoo (Alexandrian laurel) and mvule (milicia) trees towering up to 30 and 40 metres. From the junctions on their huge trunks grow tropical lianas and parasitical plants, whilst high up in the canopy, troupes of the Pemba vervet monkey bark and play. Below this is a second level of vegetation, mainly consisting of smaller immature trees and large shrubs. Everywhere there is the tangle of a true tropical forest.

Ngesi is the last significant area of moist forest surviving on Pemba and although the reserve covers 1440 hectares, only 550 hectares are actually forest, the remainder being evergreen thicket. Nevertheless it constitutes an invaluable resource, for it contains a number of unique and endangered species. Mammals of interest include the Pemba vervet monkey, the Pemba blue duiker and the Pemba flying fox. The latter is actually a large fruit-eating bat and a roost of over 200 is known to exist deep within the forest. Also present is a large troupe of Kirk's colobus monkey, which were settled here from Josani in the sixties in an attempt to increase their range.

The most interesting trees are the three globally rare species of mjoho (odyendea zimmermanni), chrystalido pembanus and ensete proboscoideum. It is also thought that there are likely to exist a number of unique small plant and insect species, which have not yet been recorded. Ngesi will hopefully be soon upgraded to the status of National Park in order that this pool of unique genes will be saved for future generations. In the meantime, the forest seems quite well protected, although there are reports of limited raiding by local people in search of firewood and other forest products. The staff at the ranger post run a nature trail, but it's the sandy road that passes through the best sections of the forest.

Mkia wa Ng'ombe
The track leaves the forest as suddenly as it entered and passes into an area of light cultivation, of cassava fields planted under shady trees. Immediately a right turn leads to the village of Tondooni, so named after the mtondoo or Alexandrian laurel tree, which is common in the area. From here a small track leads cross-country to the site of Mkia wa Ng'ombe, where there are the remains of a mosque, thirteen tombs and a number of houses, dating from the 12th to 15th centuries. The site is more easily reached by boat from Wete.

Mafia
Mafia Island is the quintessential scuba divers retreat. A small island just off the mainland, it was rather inaccessible until recently when scheduled charter flights began. With only two tourist lodges on the island, you can rest assured that you will not be confronted with an influx of tourists fighting for space on the beach! It is an island retreat for beach lovers, diving enthusiasts and big game fishermen alike.

The Chole Bay is Mafia's protected deep water anchorage and marine park. Just outside the bay, along the length of the island, runs an unbroken reef boasting some of the most spectacular and colourful coral gardens in the world. The Mchangari vertical wall just outside the bay drops from 5 meters to 25 meters, and is famous for its range of big fish and sharks (especially between the months of November and January for sharks).
The variety of areas to explore on the Island make it ideal for seasoned and novice divers alike.Big game fish caught here include marlin, shark, kingfish, tunny, dolphin and wahoo which are one of the finest fighters. Then there are the brightly colored damsel angel and lion fish. Under water life also includes crabs, squirts, starfish and shells in their iridescence.

Mafia is the ideal place for those wishing for perfect tranquility added to big game fishing, deep-sea diving or snorkeling.

Pangani
The name Pangani owes to the river that runs through northern part of this Historical Town. Pangani is an ancient town, and is believed to have been established before the 6th Century BC and played an important role during the slave trade era. It was a trading port dealing mainly with slaves and ivory. Several historical sites in and around the town serve as reminders for the strong Arabic influence and the later German, British colonial era in Tanganyika

Nowadays it is mainly a fishing town dotted with coconut trees, providing beautiful beaches for quiet vacation. Pangani is situated about 50km south of Tanga on the mouth of River Pangani that flows from the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

 

Attraction: Pangani Falls, a water fall that provides electricity for Tanga, Dar es Salaam, Arusha and Moshi. Pangani River hosts birds and crocodiles. Maziwi Island is a nature reserve which provides ground for snorkeling opportunity and dolphin tour. A walking tour though the town allows one to see some of old buildings that are over 200 years old, as well as visits to a former slave labor camps and slave market site.

We offer two hotels in Pangani - The Protea Pangani River Lodge, and The Tides. Visit the Hotels/Lodges section of our website for details on these properties.


Dar es Salaam
A half day trip - city tour of dar es salaam
Raised from the humble surroundings of a Fishing Village just over a century ago, Dar Es Salaam blossomed into one of the most beautiful sea-side capitals. Many beautiful and unspoilt beaches are within easy reach of Dar Es Salaam, literally translated as "The Heaven of Peace". Our most popular excursion in the city for tourists in transit enroute to the game parks of the North or South, or for Business clients with some leisure time, is the half day Dar Es Salaam City Tour.

Here is a sample of the sights and sounds you will experience during the tour:

Mnazi moja park:This is near Jamhuri and Uhuru Streets. On one side is seen the Uhuru Torch Monument erected to symbolise the Freedom Torch placed at the peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro upon Tanzania's attainment of independence. On the other side of the park is the Republic Fountain which commemorated the foundation of the republic in 1962.
kariakoo market:This beautiful main market has an interesting local colour and a diversity of peoples as well as exotic fruits, fresh fish, food products, handicrafts, local textile material and many other locally made products. The market's colour, charm and character makes it a must for every visitor.

University:
The University is superbly laid out amidst lawns and gardens on the Ubungo Observation Hill, some 14 kms. Away from the city. The hill offers magnificent open view of Dar Es Salaam city. The main campus area is built on three low hills, well wooded with cashew trees.

Village museum: This is 10 kms. Along Bagamoyo Road and has a collection of authentically constructed traditional houses of various Tanzanian tribes. It displays several distinct architectural styles with building materials ranging from sand, grass and poles to mud and rock. Villagers demonstrate their ancient skills of carving and weaving and offer their products for sale.

House of crafts (Nyumba ya sanaa) :Near the heart of Dar Es Salaam there is a unique centre for creating and selling Tanzanian arts and crafts. Many of the artists working here have developed their talents through training which enable them to transform traditional materials, designs and motifs into contemporary forms. At 'Nyumba ya Sanaa', one finds many exciting creative activities to become absorbed in like painting, drawing, figurative wax batik and etching. Carvings of ebony are made as well as jewellery, ceramics and 'tie-and-dye' dresses for men, women and children.

National Museum: The outstanding attraction is the Hall of Man where Dr. Leakey's finds from Olduvai Gorge including the skull of Nutcrackerman (Zinjanthropus bosei) and other human fossils are displayed. The Museum offers an outstanding ethnographic collection of tribal ornaments, head-dresses, witch-craft paraphernalia and traditional musical instruments collected from various regions in Tanzania. Also, the history of the East African Coast is well portrayed with Chinese porcelain glazed pottery, trade wide beads from India and a series of copper coins from the Sultan of Kilwa.

State house: The State House accommodates the offices of the President. It has an ornate structure reflecting a blend of African and Arabic architecture, partly built on the foundation of the old German Palace in 1922.

Bagamoyo
SLZ - A day trip - excursion to bagamoyo
Bagamoyo lies 75kms north of Dar es Salaam. Bagamoyo was the starting point of the slave caravan routes and also the terminus of the white missionaries. While in Bagamoyo, visit the Kaole Ruins (dating back to the earlier part of the 15th century), and the first Roman Catholic Church in Tanganyika built by the Germans in the 1880's. Do not forget the museum, which houses numerous historical artifacts. There is also a splendid beach where one can swim and enjoy a picnic lunch.

Bagamoyo was founded towards the end of the 18th century as a small port trading in dried fish, gum, cobalt and salt. Bagamoyo also served as a caravan entreport, with traders coming from distant areas of the interior, as far as Morogoro and Usambara. Later on, the use of this town for Ivory and slave trade increased its importance in the 19th century.

Bagamoyo's importance began to decline when in 1940 the Sultan of Oman, Seyyid Said, decided to move his capital from Muscat to Zanzibar, to be closer to his dominion along the Eastern African coast.

Caravans would come to the coast from the interior with goods like clothing, wire, beads and other ornaments, and would return with slaves carrying Ivory. Hence Bagamoyo became the main entreport for the slave and ivory trade on the mainland.
Renowned European explorers like Burton, Speke, Stanley and Livingstone all passed through Bagamoyo. The Holy Ghost fathers established their first mission station in Bagamoyo in 1868, and it was in its chapel that Dr. Livingstone's body was brought from the interior and kept before being shipped back to Europe.

 

 

 

 

 
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